The Evo Build page is all about my build and setup of this Kyosho AWD chassis, , I'm not saying this is what should be done because I am new to this side of the hobby,this is my own version of what I have done be it wrong or right this is to be seen, I will be learning as I go.I will be showing how I have set it up and advice that has also been given to me and to show the result of the changes made.
x The first thing is to buy the EVO 03 chassis, you get no wheels or receiver and no body shell, the EVO is probably the most expensive of all the chassis's of around the £200 mark.
The thing to remember you are getting a lot of car, most every item can be changed either in carbon or metal. Also in the picture on the right you can see a little pcb in heat shrink this also does not come with the EVO, this by the way is a lap transducer, i will talk about that later. This also includes the wires at the top of the picture, there is also a small yellow wire at far left this is the recieve, and i had fitted radial tyres all round but this might have to change once i get it on the track because of to much grip.
Now considering the cost of this EVO chassis there are faults and we will deal with them one at a time,
There are 3 black wires that go between the purple motor and the large pcb with the two white connectors. when you take the chassis out of the box the wires are far too long and if left they will get damaged or cause damage to the pcb where the 3 joints are which could be costly. The cable length to start of which is about 120mm long requires to be shortened to as short as possible so the body when fitted doesn't get squashed.
Normally the receiver is built in to the chassis but with the EVO its a seperate and requires purchasing at a cost of around £50, but the fun doesn't stop there, you have to fit the very small board under the plastic cover you can see with the word Mini-Z on it. There is a small slot for the yellow earial, but the slot is not big enough for the aerial to lay properly so they aerial gets damaged. Its required to open the slot bigger to allow the aerial to lay flatter with no strain. but it doesn't stop there, to lay the Receiver down flat there are 3 white wires need to position in such a way to get the Receiver board to lay flat, the Receiver will give a firm click when pushed into place so the cover to clip down.
The EVO chassis is not a very good fit and the body comes off or lifts on one side, now the R8 body is a bit flimsy so I will try my Laferrari which is a more firm bod. But to try to get over the problem with the R8 body shell, I have put the problem out to all forum's and here are some of the suggestions.
Stick a piece of card on one side of the matching faces.
Use blue tac on the matting faces
Tape under the chassis and bottom of the body shell making sure not to put it on the T bracket near the rear.
Butyl rubber putty that also absorbs vibrations.
Using the heat gun very carefully and closing the body sides closer.
A bracket that is being made from a 3d printer is being designed.
Removing the side mounting clips and packing them out a little and gluing them back.
How the battery compartment has been designed is crazy and not very friendly to use, trying to remove the battery cells is very fiddly and the way some people have done it is to stick a piece of flat ribbon in the compartment before the cells , then fit the cells so when you want to remove them you pull the ribbon.